Tennessee Civil War Railroad

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“Our Trip over the Northwestern Railroad.”

But a few weeks since, just after the completion of the Northwestern Railroad, connecting the capital of Tennessee with Hickman, on the Mississippi, General Superintendent Innes invited attaches of the several daily papers of this city to accompany an excursion train over the road from Nashville to its western terminus. Owing to the shortness of the notice, and the multiplicity of duties devolving upon all hands in the office, the Press and Times was not represented on that occasion. Finding a little spare time last week, we concluded to take a ride over this road, as much to see the country along its line, as to get a respite from the din and bustle of city life.

Early on Thursday morning we proceeded to the Chattanooga depot, along side of which the train bound West was waiting all who might present themselves as passengers. The sky was clear, and the air quite cool. In fact, there was a heavy frost, the first we has seen this autumn, not only tangible, but visible. At 6 o'clock the stentorian voice of the conductor sang out “all aboard,” when the train slowly moved off, drawn by engine No. 18, otherwise known as the “Gov. Brownlow.” Soon we had traversed that part of the road on stilts over the “lick Branch,” not far above where “the said Hood” played “possum” to the “Injuns,” and lost his scalp, and were rapidly approaching that outer line of battlements, the city soon faded away in the distance, when we found ourself [sic] indeed in the country, breathing its pure air, and enjoying its sublimer scenery – its hills and valleys, fields and forests. “Man made the city, God the country.” Therefore, dear reader, if you be a dweller in the country, repine not at your lot, for “rural felicity” is preferable to the crowded city, with its heartless indifference, its fashion and vanity, stench and dust.

Six and a half miles out, we passed at Bellemead, the first stopping place after leaving the city. Then away we go through that beautiful section of country, so highly improved and so desirable, embracing a model stock farm of Gen. Harding, with its grassy; lawns and stone fences, it comfortable mansion and convenient appendages.

Now we are ten miles out, at Vaughn’s Gap. Another pause, and away we go, through hill and valley, over creek and ravine, passing Bellevue, Smith’s Mills, Newsom, Pegram, Palmer’s Mills, Kingston Springs, Glendale, White Bluff, Burns, Smeedville, McCall, Gillem, McEwen, to Waverly, the county seat of Humphreys county, and sixty-six and a half miles from Nashville. Waverly, though a railroad town, looks rather dilapidated and has been sadly neglected by the painter. It boasts three brick buildings, court-house, church and academy: so we may reasonably infer that the good people of Humphreys are not forgetful of these three cardinal duties – the administration of justice, the worship of God, and the “teaching the young idea how to shoot.” [sic] * The “White House,” where the up-train passengers take dinner, is a new establishment, and furnishes just such meals are hungry mortals are glad to get. Jimmie Noland, the kind and attentive manager of the house, has out thanks for favors extended us. After the delivery of the mails, a small accession of passengers, and away we roll for forty minutes, when we “fetch up” at Johnsonville, environed on one side by barren sand-hills [sic], and on the other by the Tennessee river. It is seventy-eight miles from Nashville, is a railroad town which sprang up during the war, and was named after the “Alderman of Greeneville,” “one of the immortal thirteen,” the then Military Governor of Tennessee, but now His Excellency the President of the United States. Johnsonville enjoys not only railroad facilities, but is accessible by steamboats from the upper and lower Tennessee, and was a great depot for Government stores during the rebellion. We asked a disciple of Roger Sherman the population of the place. He though not more than four hundred! We replied we thought not. Perhaps, including black and white, dogs and all, the number may be two hundred. The “Johnson House, the principal hotel, (and we observed several others,) stands just opposite the depot, perched on a hill side, about as high above the train as a country martin box above a chicken coop. We know nothing of the house, but saw at least one attraction – “the girl with the blue dress on,” but what “de white folks calls her,” deponent sayeth not. Just at 10 o'clock the unbound train came by, giving us the track below, and in a few minutes we had quit Johnsonville and were moving slowly over the Tennessee river bridge, a Howe Truss, a most excellent structure about five hundred yards long, and connecting Middle with West Tennessee. From the bridge we had a fine view of the river above and below, and we thought to ourself [sic] how great the change since old man Donelson and his fellow voyagers passed here, on their way from their settlements in East Tennessee to the “Bluffs” on the Cumberland, to found a habitation in the wilderness, of which Nashville is the legitimate offspring. What changes, what transformations, what developments have been made in eighty-five years!

It was here, too, that we saw some dozen or less hulks of boats, said to have been destroyed during the war by the rebel General Forrest.

Over the river, the road now leads through the Tennessee bottom, densely crowded with timber, and in some places through swamps studded with cypress knees and other growth. On, and on we go passing Willston, Camden, Hollow Rock, till the breakman cries out, Huntingdon! When we take a bird’s-eye of the capital of Carroll, one of the oldest looking towns in West Tennessee. It too, has been quite neglected by all the mechanics: mason, carpenter and unpainted. However, should the talked of railroad be constructed, connecting with Jackson, Tennessee, and thus forming a nearly direct line of railway from Nashville to New Orleans, Huntingdon will yet see better days. It seems to us that this is an important link, and that railroad men will not long delay its construction.

From Huntingdon we move on, stopping at Hico, a minute, to McKenzie, the point where the Memphis and Ohio and the Nashville and North-Western railways intersect each other; and also the dinner stand for the down trains, distant from this city one hundred and nineteen miles. The dinner was good, and the clerks are quite attentive, especially to the collection of bills. They do a safe business at this house, requiring passengers to pay in advance, acting upon the precaution couched in the homely couplet:

“Since man to man is so unjust!

We do not know what man to trust.”

All the seats were filed with busy occupants, none engaging in conversation, except a couple of wise-acres who talked knowingly, and related many things that “I did.” Mr. Pomposity has speculated in grain, investing some $8,000; and had all dealings with some “big house,” whose acquaintance he had formed through the “First National Bank!” What a happy medium through which to form acquaintances! A descendant of Abraham though the best way to make money now, was just to do nothing at all. He may be half right – don’t know. He vowed up by saying, “all whiskey distillers and large dealers are d____d rascals!” He knew “all about it.”

Here too, we took leave of a number of passengers, among them a couple who had talked much on the way down. One was an official of some West Tennessee County, and the other had wanted to go to Congress. He talked much; expostulated with the Sheriff about the innovations of his party; would suffer much; but before he would suffer a party to elevate the negro above him and his disfranchised friends, he would resist by any and all means within his power. The Sheriff admitted that there were some things which he did not approve, but thought they would adjust themselves after awhile, and all things would again move on smoothly. Although Maury has the lucky man, we confess Humphreys has the best looking man. We trust Mr. Arnell will take no exception at our decision as to the relative beauty of himself and his handsome competitor.

But the Louisville train has come and gone, and so away we go to Gleson [sic], and then on to Dresden, the capital of Weakley county, and a pleasant looking town at that. From this [point] on, the soil becomes better and better, and the towns and country residences wear a more pleasant appearance. Again we move on, stopping at Ralston, Gardiner and Raccoon, to Union City, in Obion county, where the Mobile and Ohio crosses the Nashville and Northwestern Railroad, and from which place the New Orleans and Ohio railroad runs to Paducah, at the mouth of the Tennessee. These last named town are all new, and the latter promises much for the future, as a railroad point.

Leaving Union City, we move rapidly on, passing the State line, and a few minutes bring us to Hickman, in Fulton county, Ky., on the Mississippi, one hundred and seventy miles from the capital of Tennessee. Hickman is a new and thriving town, with a population variously estimated at from 1,500 to 2,500, and is located on a high and irregular bluff, overlooking the great “Father of Waters.” As to its probable future, we of course know but little. It appears to us to be the most direct, as well as the cheapest and speediest, route of transit for freights from New Orleans, St. Louis and other points, North and West, to Nashville. Should the Nashville and Northwestern Railroad some day change its western terminus to Columbus, Ky., to Pilot Knob, there connecting with the St. Louis and Iron Mountain road to the city of St. Louis, then Hickman would lose much of its importance, and would doubtless do but little business.

The Nashville and Northwestern Railroad, from this city to Johnsonville, a distance of seventy-eight miles, is an excellent road, having good ties and ballast. From Johnsonville to Hickman the road is good, but being new and for the most part without ballast, it is not in as excellent condition as the Eastern Division.

The completion of the Nashville and Northwestern Railroad, which occurred in the month of August last, has given to our city a most valuable avenue of communication, which will grow in importance as time advances.

The uniting of the Capitol of Tennessee with the Mississippi will prove in time, of great moment in the direction of trade and commerce.

The road connects South and West, with the Illinois Central to Chicago, the Iron Mountain road to St. Louis, the Memphis and Ohio to Memphis, and the Mobile and Ohio to Mobile and New Orleans. The road is in the hands of excellent officers, and every day adds to there business with it transacts. Connecting as it does, the Middle with the Western portion of the State, it is destined to become one of the most important and successful avenues of communication. We commend the road to the attention of the business and traveling public.

Nashville Press & Times, October 30, 1867